Leopard geckos are one of the best reptiles for beginners. They are calm, easy to handle, relatively low maintenance and absolutely fascinating to watch. With the right setup and care routine, a leopard gecko can live 15 to 20 years in captivity.
In this complete guide we cover everything you need to know: habitat setup, temperature, feeding, handling, health and common problems.
Leopard Gecko Basic Facts
- Scientific name: Eublepharis macularius
- Lifespan: 15 to 20 years in captivity
- Adult size: 20 to 28 cm (8 to 11 inches)
- Weight: 45 to 65 grams
- Activity pattern: Crepuscular (most active at dawn and dusk)
- Difficulty level: Beginner-friendly
Setting Up the Perfect Habitat
The enclosure is the most important investment you will make for your leopard gecko. Getting it right from the start prevents most health problems.
Enclosure size
- Single adult gecko: minimum 40 gallon tank (90 x 45 x 45 cm)
- Two geckos: minimum 60 gallon tank — never house two males together
Substrate
The substrate is the material that covers the floor of the enclosure. For leopard geckos use one of these safe options:
- Paper towels — easiest to clean, best for juveniles
- Reptile carpet — reusable and easy to maintain
- Slate tiles — natural look, helps wear down nails naturally
Never use sand or loose substrate with juvenile geckos — it causes fatal impaction if accidentally ingested.
Hides
Leopard geckos need three hides inside their enclosure:
- Cool hide — on the cool side of the tank for resting
- Warm hide — on the warm side for thermoregulation
- Moist hide — filled with damp moss, essential for shedding
Temperature and Lighting
Temperature is critical for leopard gecko health. As reptiles, they cannot regulate their own body temperature — the enclosure must provide a proper thermal gradient.
- Warm side: 88°F to 92°F (31°C to 33°C)
- Cool side: 75°F to 80°F (24°C to 27°C)
- Nighttime: no lower than 65°F (18°C)
Use an under-tank heater (UTH) connected to a thermostat to maintain consistent temperatures. Never use hot rocks — they cause burns.
Leopard geckos do not require UVB lighting like other reptiles, but low-level UVB (5.0) has shown benefits for long-term health and is now recommended by most reptile vets.
Feeding Your Leopard Gecko
Leopard geckos are insectivores — they eat only live insects. Never feed them fruits, vegetables or dead insects.
Best feeder insects
- Crickets — staple food, widely available and nutritious
- Dubia roaches — excellent nutritional profile, easy to digest
- Mealworms — good as occasional treats, high in fat
- Waxworms — only as rare treats, very high in fat
Feeding schedule
- Juveniles (under 6 months): feed daily, as many insects as they eat in 15 minutes
- Adults (over 6 months): feed every 2 to 3 days, 6 to 8 insects per feeding
Supplements
This step is non-negotiable. Without proper supplementation leopard geckos develop Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), which is painful and often fatal.
- Calcium without D3 — dust every feeding
- Calcium with D3 — dust twice per month
- Multivitamin — dust once per month
Handling Your Leopard Gecko
Leopard geckos are one of the most handleable reptiles. However, building trust takes time and patience.
- Wait at least 2 weeks after bringing your gecko home before handling — let it settle in
- Start with 5 minute sessions and gradually increase to 15 to 20 minutes
- Always support the full body — never grab by the tail
- Handle during the evening when the gecko is naturally more active
- Never handle during shedding — it causes stress and can damage the new skin
Common Health Problems
Knowing the warning signs early can save your gecko's life:
- Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) — caused by calcium deficiency. Signs: trembling, soft jaw, difficulty walking. Prevention: proper supplementation.
- Retained shed — incomplete shedding that cuts off circulation. Prevention: always provide a moist hide.
- Cryptosporidiosis — a parasitic infection. Signs: rapid weight loss despite eating. Requires immediate vet attention.
- Impaction — blockage from ingesting substrate. Prevention: use safe substrate, avoid loose sand.
¿Cómo cuidar un gecko leopardo?
El gecko leopardo es uno de los reptiles más recomendados para principiantes. Es tranquilo, fácil de manejar y puede vivir entre 15 y 20 años en cautiverio con el cuidado adecuado.
Necesita un terrario mínimo de 90 x 45 x 45 cm con un gradiente de temperatura: zona cálida entre 31°C y 33°C y zona fría entre 24°C y 27°C. Se alimenta exclusivamente de insectos vivos como grillos y cucarachas Dubia. Es fundamental suplementar con calcio en cada comida para prevenir la Enfermedad Metabólica Ósea.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can leopard geckos live together?
Two females can sometimes coexist in a large enough enclosure. Never house two males together — they will fight. A male and female will breed, which requires significant additional preparation and responsibility.
How often do leopard geckos shed?
Juveniles shed every 1 to 2 weeks. Adults shed every 4 to 8 weeks. Always provide a moist hide during shedding and never pull shed skin manually.
Do leopard geckos bite?
Leopard geckos can bite when stressed or threatened, but it is rare with properly handled geckos. Their bite is small and generally does not break skin. With regular gentle handling, biting becomes extremely uncommon.
How long can a leopard gecko go without eating?
A healthy adult leopard gecko can go 2 weeks without eating. However, if your gecko refuses food for more than 2 weeks alongside weight loss, consult a reptile veterinarian.
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Pawpedia Editorial Team
Reviewed against ASPCA and AKC veterinary guidelines · Updated May 2026
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