Tarantulas are one of the most misunderstood pets in the world. Far from being dangerous monsters, most pet tarantulas are calm, low maintenance and absolutely fascinating to observe. With the right setup they require very little daily care — making them ideal for busy people who want an exotic pet.
In this complete guide we cover everything you need to know to keep a pet tarantula healthy and thriving.
Why Keep a Tarantula as a Pet?
- Low maintenance — most tarantulas only need feeding once or twice a week
- Silent — no noise, no barking, no meowing
- No allergies — ideal for people allergic to fur
- Fascinating behavior — watching a tarantula hunt, molt and build webbing is genuinely captivating
- Low cost — food and maintenance costs are minimal compared to cats or dogs
- Long lifespan — females of many species live 20 to 30 years in captivity
Best Tarantula Species for Beginners
Not all tarantulas are suitable for beginners. These species are the most recommended for first-time keepers:
1. Brachypelma hamorii (Mexican Red Knee)
The most iconic pet tarantula. Slow moving, docile, beautifully colored and extremely hardy. Their calm temperament makes them excellent for handling. Growth is slow but they can live over 30 years.
2. Grammostola pulchripes (Chaco Golden Knee)
One of the most docile tarantulas in the hobby. Large, golden-haired and remarkably calm. Rarely flicks urticating hairs and almost never shows defensive behavior. Perfect for beginners.
3. Brachypelma auratum (Mexican Flame Knee)
Similar to the Red Knee in temperament but with striking orange and black coloration. Hardy, slow growing and tolerant of handling.
4. Eupalaestrus campestratus (Pink Zebra Beauty)
Extremely docile and rarely defensive. One of the best beginner species available. Slow growing but exceptionally long lived.
Setting Up the Enclosure
The enclosure setup depends on the species — terrestrial (ground-dwelling) or arboreal (tree-dwelling). Most beginner species are terrestrial.
Enclosure size
- Spiderlings (under 3 cm): small deli cup or 500ml container
- Juveniles (3–7 cm): small enclosure 20 x 20 x 20 cm
- Adults (over 7 cm): enclosure 30 x 30 x 30 cm minimum
A general rule: the enclosure should be no wider than 2 to 3 times the tarantula's leg span. Too much space causes stress.
Substrate
Substrate is the most important element of a terrestrial tarantula enclosure. Use a mix of:
- Coconut fiber (coco peat) — retains moisture, excellent for burrowing
- Topsoil — organic, pesticide-free potting soil
- Vermiculite — helps maintain humidity
Depth should be at least 10 to 15 cm for burrowing species. Never use sand, gravel or wood chips.
Hides and decoration
- Provide one hide — a half cork bark or a small clay pot on its side
- Add a water dish — shallow enough that the tarantula cannot drown
- Keep decoration minimal — tarantulas do not need enrichment the way mammals do
Temperature and Humidity
Most beginner tarantula species thrive at room temperature — no special heating is required in most homes.
- Temperature: 22°C to 28°C (72°F to 82°F)
- Humidity: 60% to 70% for most terrestrial species
Maintain humidity by lightly moistening one corner of the substrate every 1 to 2 weeks while keeping the other side dry. Never mist directly onto the tarantula.
Feeding Your Pet Tarantula
Tarantulas are carnivores. In captivity they eat live insects.
Best feeder insects
- Crickets — widely available, nutritious, easy to digest
- Dubia roaches — excellent nutritional profile, cannot climb smooth surfaces
- Mealworms — good alternative, easy to store
Feeding schedule
- Spiderlings: every 4 to 5 days, offer prey items smaller than the abdomen
- Juveniles: once or twice per week
- Adults: once every 1 to 2 weeks
Always remove uneaten prey after 24 hours — a cricket left in the enclosure can stress or injure a molting tarantula.
Molting — The Most Critical Process
Molting is when a tarantula sheds its exoskeleton to grow. It is the most vulnerable period in a tarantula's life and requires specific care:
- Never feed a tarantula that is showing pre-molt signs — swollen abdomen, loss of appetite, dull coloration
- Remove all live prey immediately when molting begins
- Never disturb a molting tarantula — the process can take hours to days
- Wait at least 2 weeks after molting before feeding again — the new exoskeleton needs time to harden
- Maintain proper humidity during molt to prevent a stuck shed
Handling Your Tarantula
Not all tarantulas tolerate handling — and handling is never necessary for the tarantula's wellbeing. If you choose to handle:
- Always sit on the floor — a fall from height can be fatal to a tarantula
- Move slowly and let the tarantula walk onto your hand voluntarily
- Never handle during or after molting
- Never handle a tarantula that is in a defensive posture
- Wash your hands before and after handling
¿Cómo cuidar una tarántula como mascota?
Las tarántulas son mascotas exóticas fascinantes, silenciosas y de bajo mantenimiento. Las especies más recomendadas para principiantes son la Brachypelma hamorii (Rodilla Roja Mexicana) y la Grammostola pulchripes (Rodilla Dorada del Chaco), ambas dóciles y robustas.
Necesitan un terrario con sustrato de fibra de coco de al menos 10 cm de profundidad, temperatura entre 22°C y 28°C, y alimentación con insectos vivos una o dos veces por semana. El proceso de muda es el momento más crítico — nunca alimentes ni manipules una tarántula en muda.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are pet tarantulas dangerous?
Most pet tarantulas are not dangerous to healthy adults. New World species like the Mexican Red Knee have mild venom comparable to a bee sting. The main defense mechanism is flicking urticating hairs, which cause skin irritation. Old World species have stronger venom and are not recommended for beginners.
How long do pet tarantulas live?
Females of many species live 20 to 30 years in captivity. Males have significantly shorter lifespans — typically 3 to 7 years. When buying a tarantula, ask for a confirmed female if you want a long-term pet.
Do tarantulas need a heat lamp?
Most pet tarantula species do not require supplemental heating if your home stays between 22°C and 28°C. If additional heat is needed, use a heat mat on the side of the enclosure — never on the bottom, as tarantulas burrow and can overheat.
Can I keep multiple tarantulas together?
No. Tarantulas are solitary animals and will cannibalize each other if housed together. Each tarantula must have its own separate enclosure.
Recommended Products for Pet Tarantulas
Everything you need to set up the perfect tarantula enclosure:
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Pawpedia Editorial Team
Reviewed against ASPCA and AKC veterinary guidelines · Updated May 2026
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